Most solar regrets come from the sales process, not the panels. Take your time, get several quotes and compare them on the same terms.
Before you call anyone
- Gather twelve months of electric bills. Note your kWh use and your rate structure.
- Check your roof’s age and condition. If it needs replacing within about ten years, do that first; removing and reinstalling panels costs extra.
- Look up your local incentives and your utility’s export credit rules.
- Run the calculator so you know roughly what size and price to expect.
Getting and comparing quotes
- Ask at least three installers. Include a local company that has worked in your area for years.
- Compare price per watt. Divide the total price by system size in watts. This makes different sized offers comparable.
- Compare production estimates. Ask for the expected kWh per year and how it was calculated. An estimate far above the others is a warning sign.
- Compare equipment. Panel brand and model, inverter type, battery chemistry and warranties.
- Compare the fine print. Workmanship warranty, who handles permits and interconnection, and what happens if the company goes out of business.
Questions to ask every installer
- Are you licensed and insured here? Can I see your license number?
- Do your own crews install, or do you subcontract?
- Are your designers or electricians certified (for example NABCEP in North America)?
- How long is your workmanship warranty, including roof leaks?
- What will my savings be under my utility’s current export rules, not the old ones?
- Can I talk to three customers whose systems are at least three years old?
Red flags
Walk away if you hear: “free solar,” “a government program that pays for everything,” “this price is only good today,” or a promise that your bill will be zero forever. Never sign on a tablet at your door without reading the full contract.
- Savings calculated with credits or tax breaks you do not qualify for. In the United States, homeowners who buy a system can no longer claim the federal 30 percent credit for systems installed after 2025.
- Loan payments that include a large hidden dealer fee to show a low interest rate.
- Leases with steep yearly price escalators, or unclear terms if you sell your home.
Ways to pay
| Option | Who owns it | Pros | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cash | You | Highest lifetime savings, simplest | Large upfront cost |
| Solar or home equity loan | You | Own it with little upfront | Dealer fees, interest rates |
| Lease | A company | No upfront cost, maintenance included | Escalators, transfer when selling |
| Power purchase agreement (PPA) | A company | Pay only per kWh produced | Contract length, buyout terms |
| Community solar subscription | A project owner | No roof needed, works for renters | Contract terms, availability |
| PACE or on bill financing | You | Repaid through property taxes or bills | Liens, total cost |
After the contract: permits to power on
- Site survey and final design.
- Building and electrical permits from your city or county.
- Utility interconnection application.
- Installation, usually one to three days for a home.
- Inspection by the local authority.
- Permission to operate from the utility. Do not switch on before this.
Keeping it working
Check your monitoring app monthly. A sudden drop usually means a tripped breaker, a failed inverter or heavy soiling. Rinse panels with plain water from the ground if dust is heavy, and never walk on them. Keep every document: contract, warranties, permits and the as built wiring diagram.
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